Can You Make Your Own Dandruff Shampoo? Why Going DIY is Risky

Do-it-yourself projects can be fun, adventurous, and gratifying…if you’re making a bird feeder or a bike rack. But dandruff treatment? That’s another matter entirely.

Sure, there are plenty of reasons to avoid drugstore dandruff shampoo. Maybe you can’t stand the medicated smell of the big brands on your head & shoulders (you know, the ones in the old blue bottles). Or perhaps you want to dodge the harmful ingredients used in most mainstream hair care products - things like sulfates and parabens. Both of these concerns are perfectly reasonable and it is usually best to look for a sulfate-free, paraben-free, and phthalate-free product when looking for the best dandruff shampoo.

But DIY treatments come with all their own problems - first and foremost that they just don’t work. Today, we’ll explore some common DIY dandruff remedies, learn where they go wrong, and see what science and dermatologists say about the best way to eliminate dandruff symptoms from flaky scalp to itchiness. 

Salt is included in some homemade shampoos and dandruff remedies because the crystals can act as a natural exfoliant, removing dead skin cells, including dandruff flakes. But salt can be harsh on the scalp, causing damage to the hair shaft. It may ultimately lead to hair that is noticeably thin, brittle, and dry. Salt can also lead to a dry scalp that is itchy, or damaged from too-rough treatment. 

All of this can be an unkind way to treat an already-irritated scalp, and may lead to more harm than good. It’s not worth the risk when there are ingredients proven to treat dandruff flakes without over-drying or damaging your hair or scalp (more on that below!). And if you’re trying to exfoliate, you’re much better off with a scalp brush.

Apple cider vinegar is often recommended as part of homemade conditioners, and included in shampoo recipes to balance their pH. It’s said to leave all hair types silky and soft. However, even those who recommend apple cider vinegar for hair care note that it leaves behind a distinctive, undesirable fragrance until your next shampoo. 

While apple cider may make your hair look good, no one is likely to notice if there’s an overpowering scent of vinegar wafting from your locks.

Lemon juice is also used in DIY hair conditioner and shampoo formulas to help balance pH, as well as for several other positive properties that can potentially help an irritated scalp. These include its antifungal action and high levels of vitamin C, which can promote collagen production in the skin, aiding in healing and healthy skin growth. Lemon juice can also be an effective cleansing ingredient for excess sebum, the natural oil produced by your sebaceous glands that is often overabundant in scalps with dandruff. 

Lemon juice does carry some risks when used in a DIY dandruff treatment, though. It can lighten your hair color, especially when left in your hair and exposed to the sun, and may interact with color-treated hair. It can also be too harsh for people with sensitive skin and particularly those with conditions like seborrheic dermatitis, eczema, and psoriasis (which are conditions that are often linked to scalp irritation and flaking). The citric acid in lemon juice that helps it strip oil from your hair can go too far, leading to added dryness and irritation, inflammation, and increased itching and discomfort.

The worst case scenario if you use DIY lemon juice remedies to treat dandruff is a condition called phytophotodermatitis. This is a skin reaction some people have to certain plants that can cause blistering, dark spots, and serious inflammation of the skin. Instead of using lemon in a DIY concoction, look for dandruff care products formulated with vitamin C and the proven anti-fungal ingredient Zinc Pyrithione. 

Essential oils - potent concentrates extracted from plants - are mainstays of DIY shampoos, conditioners, and skincare products. Depending on the plant they are derived from, their strength, and how they are used, these natural ingredients can offer powerful effects ranging from beneficial to downright dangerous. Many add a pleasant fragrance to DIY dandruff shampoo recipes. 

Common essential oils you might see recommended to help eliminate dandruff include tea tree oil, rosemary, and lavender. These oils do have potentially helpful properties, including acting as antimicrobials and anti-inflammatories. However, essential oils on their own can be potent and should never be applied undiluted directly to the skin. They can cause significant irritation and damage when used improperly and formulated without the proper science and understanding of dermatology. In addition, their potency can vary, making their effectiveness as well as their safety for use in home remedies hard to predict or control.